#Wargaming terrain-Take the hill!

War gaming terrain – Take the hill!

Here is a walk through of the hill we’re making, for our miniature war gaming week.

We decided to do a basic, summer time theme.  Should work with any forest settings as well.

There are two ways up onto this hill, so we plan to use it as an area to capture for victory points.

• Materials List:

1. 1/8″ Hardboard
2. Scroll Saw
3. Rasp
4. Corrugated Cardboard
5. Hot glue/glue gun
6. Staples/Stapler
7. Plaster of Paris
8. Napkins (Unfold and cut into 4 squares)
9. White Glue/Water (50/50 mix)
10. Sand Paper
11. Acrylic Craft Paints
12. Liquitex Flow Aid (Diluted with distilled water 1/20 mix.)
13. Liquitex Slow-Dri
14. “Cheap” paint brushes (No need for the sable brushes here.)
15. Spray Adhesive or Scenic Cement.  A glue/water mix may work as well.
16. Sand/Gravel  (Rinsed, and dried.)
17. Flocking Material/Moss (Note: natural materials should be hit with a fungicide & sealed when you’re done.)
18. Appropriate Safety Equipment – Gloves, Eye Protection, Respirator

• Assembly Instructions:

1. Trace the desired shape of your hill onto the hardboard.
2. Cut out shape using a scroll saw.
3. Use a rasp to add texture to the hardboard for adhesion.
4. Create a substructure for your hill, using corrugated cardboard strips.  Ends were folded under, and hot glued to the base, forming a grid.  Strips were stapled togeth er for additional support.  Alternatively, you can also hot glue the strips together, at the areas where they meet.
5. Mix up Plaster of Paris (fairly runny mix).  Dip your cut up napkin squares into the mix, ring them out,  and cover your sub-structure.  Several layers will be necessary.
6. Once the napkins are in place, and you have the rough shape you want for your hill, dip your hands into the plaster mixture, and smooth on additional plaster to remove any trace of the “dimples” the napkins may have left.
7. Let your piece dry.  This may take 24 hours or more.
8. Sand any rough spots off of your dried piece and smooth out any rough areas.
9. Remove all dust from your project, with a brush or vacuum.
10. Seal the entire plaster area with a 50/50 white glue and water mix.  Let dry completely.

• Painting and Finishing Instructions

1. Using a selection of browns, mixed with a few drops of diluted Flow Aid, and Slow-Dri, I lightly coat the piece.   The idea is to get some color variations, so any exposed r ock surfaces will look more natural. Let this layer of paint dry completely.
2. Make a black wash, with paint and water.  Multiple coats may be necessary to achieve your desired results.  The idea is allow some of the brown to show through, while still getting the gray tones out of the wash.  Cover the entire surface, and let dry.
3. Paint areas you want to be grass covered with green acrylic paint, mixed with a few drops of diluted Flow Aid, and Slow-Dri.  I used three shades, and did some dry brushing with the yellowest tone to add some variety.  Allow the surface to dry completely.
4. I covered the rock surfaces with Scenic Cement, and sprinkled on coarse sand.  I worked in about 3″ sections at a time.  Once this had set up a little, I came back with an old toothbrush, and knocked off any excess, so some of the surface beneath would show through.
5. I covered the grass area with Scenic Cement, and covered the area with flocking material.  All I had on hand was the thicker flock material, normally used for trees & brush.  A finer flock would give a more grass-like look.  I did not cover every surface entirely, and let some of the paint from beneath show through.  Once flocked, I shook off any excess to be reclaimed for future projects.
6. Again, using Scenic Cement, I attached details, like the moss for some shrubbery, purple flock for some flower details, and rocks.
7. Allow the piece to dry thoroughly.
8. Spray with a matte finish spray, to reduce any shine, and help seal the project.

@veakari